BEST WAX FOR PAINTED FURNITURE

BEST WAX FOR PAINTED FURNITURE......

Wax - is it the best sealant? What about durability? Will wax provide longevity?  So, just what are the different waxes and how do they compare?  Clear wax, antiquing wax, black wax, white wax and metallic? There are a lot of options out there with each manufacturer touting their products as the best.

I have spent the better part of my life painting everything from the smallest picture frame to massive kitchen cupboards – and every type of furniture imaginable.  I am a curious sort, wanting to learn - absorbing as much information as I can keeps me in the loop on all the latest and greatest tools and accessories. So, if I am able to impart a little wisdom and guide you on your next adventure into the furniture painting world - mission accomplished!.

So, Here’s The Thing…..

Painting furniture is all fun and games...until you start waxing. Right off the bat I am going to tell you something the manufacturers won't - WAXING AIN'T FOR SISSIES!  No word a lie - IT IS TOUGH WORK - so - be prepared for a good workout.

Secondly, wax, like most speciality products, is not cheap.  You will spend a considerable amount of money on a rather small container. LESS IS BEST - it is not necessary to be heavy handed or liberal in the application.

It is also worth pointing out that wax is considered a protective finish in addition to being a barrier from such things as moisture, air pollutants and dust. During the waxing process, wax is absorbed into the wood and cures from the inside out which means your finished project will be durable. And, for the record - although wax is a great protective finish, it is not a "tough as nails" finish compared to a topcoat, varathane or acrylic.  Therefore, as much as wax is my preferred finish, I recommend reapplying wax every few years to help maintain durability and provide health and nourishment to the wood.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE, WHAT DO THEY DO, AND HOW DO I USE IT?

CLEAR WAX – The first step. Whatever your vision for your finished project, clear wax is the first step.  Clear wax will emphasize the depth of color. You can stop after one or two coats of clear wax for a clean matte finish and your piece will be gorgeous.  However, if you choose to add one of the other waxes for definition, clear wax will act as the base and allow you the freedom to move and blend additional waxes with ease.

DISTRESSING - If you choose to distress your piece, now is the time. Some prefer to distress prior to waxing, others prefer to distress after the first coat of wax - it is personal preference.  I will say this, distressing after the first coat of wax controls the chalk dust! Distressing after the first coat of wax also gives you more control over the distressing process.  I distress using both methods but it largely depends on first - ventilation, and second - what I am trying to achieve. Try distressing both ways and do what you are comfortable with - it's all about experimenting and finding what works for you!

ANTIQUING (DARK) WAX – If you choose to enhance the imperfections, give your project more of a rustic, farmhouse effect or desire additional depth of color and character, antiquing wax is a fantastic medium for this look. It gives your project a patina, an old feel – texture, like it has been around for ages.

BLACK WAX – A great wax for a contemporary look with an old world age appeal. Using Black Wax will further enhance the depth of color and is an excellent choice for bringing out texture and brushwork. Black wax is applied in the same fashion as Antiquing wax and the same steps are followed to achieve the depth, character and a classic look.

WHITE WAX – If you are looking for a barn board, beachy, nautical or white-wash farmhouse appearance, you will achieve this using White Wax.  Applied in the same manner as Antiquing and Black wax. Following these same steps, you will achieve the weathered, limed and worn look.

HOW TO APPLY CLEAR WAX - Using your brush, apply the wax working in small sections.  Be sure to get in the groves, nooks, crannies and crevices. Before you move on to the next section go back with a lint free cloth - or my favorite, cotton work gloves, and remove any excess wax.  You should feel a smooth finish.  If your fingers are "pulling" or the wax feels tacky – go back and continue wiping off the excess wax. When you are finished waxing your project - go back - check your piece to ensure it is completely protected in clear wax. If clear wax is the only sealant you will use, I strongly suggest two coats, waiting 24 hours before applying the second coat.

HOW TO APPLY WAX FOR A RUSTIC FINISH - Using your brush, work the antiquing wax into the corners and crevices of your piece to bring out brush marks and recesses. Work your brush in different directions, not even straight strokes.  Blend the wax so it has an uneven appearance and creates character, heavier around the recessed areas, lighter where you would like it to look worn. Again, as with clear wax, work in small patches and before moving on to the next section, use a lint free cloth or cotton gloves and wipe down where you have just applied the antiquing wax.  Continue these steps until your piece is complete.

HOW TO APPLY WAX FOR A CONTEMPORARY FINISH - Using your brush, work the wax in small sections, blending for a smooth finish.  Add wax in a more controlled, uniform fashion. Before moving to the next section, using a clean cotton rag, wipe away the excess wax in long, smooth strokes.

MY FAVORITES - IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER:

ANNIE SLOAN

Annie Sloan waxes are creamy smooth, easily manipulated and will give your paintwork the protective finish necessary to stand the test of time.  If you have not used Annie Sloan wax before, you may find the consistency a little thicker than the others recommended here, however, the coverage is excellent, acceptable price point and easy to work with. I particularly like Annie's wax when I want a heavy wax finish, multiple layers and a piece to have a ton of character. 

COST - Annie Sloan offers Clear, Antiquing (Dark), Black and White Wax. - 4oz CAD$22.50 - 16oz CAD$32.00

MINWAX PASTE FINISHING WAX

This is an amazing product!  Minwax has been in business since 1904, so I’m thinking they know a thing or two about wax. And, it smells amazing!  This wax is pretty much bullet proof once it has dried and cured.  It is easy to work with and adds a beautiful matte luster to any project. I will use Minwax on pretty much any project - it is that awesome to work with and gives my pieces a great clear finish or a fantastic base for the addition of other waxes.

COST – 450gm CAD$12.00

MISS MUSTARD SEED

Made from a beeswax base, this is a beautiful product.  One of Miss Mustard Seed's (MMS) waxes actually has lavender oil to add to the pleasure of waxing furniture!  These waxes are buttery in texture and will achieve the same goal as Annie Sloan, however, I find I’m required to use more of Miss Mustard Seed’s wax, but I love the texture, the smell and the ability to manipulate this product.  I choose MMS for projects when I have used Milk Paint for a chippy finish.  It is "lighter" in texture and easy to apply. Seriously, it is like spreading softened butter on your project. 

COST – Miss Mustard Seed offers Clear and Lavender infused Furniture Wax, White Wax and Antiquing Wax. All 50gm containers CAD$16.00 – White Wax 200gm CAD$35.00 – Clear Furniture Wax 200gm CAD$29.00 – Antiquing Wax 200gm CAD$32.00 Lavender Scent Furniture Wax 200gm CAD$38.95

FUSION MINERAL PAINT WAX

Buttery smooth and easy to use, Fusion wax is a fine museum quality wax.  It provides a beautiful luster to any finished product and is durable, insuring longevity.  I love the selection of waxes offered from Fusion.  Choose from Clear, Espresso, Black, Liming and Aging for a gorgeous authentic look or Copper, Pearl or Rose Gold for a metallic finish.  What I love about Fusion is the array of wax choices. The waxes are easily applied, provides good coverage and on point price wise. 

COST - 50gm CAD$16.99 - 200gm CAD$28.00 

OTHER HELPFUL TIDBITS –

If you find you have added too much of a darker or metallic wax, clear wax can help you remove any excess before it has cured.  Simply apply clear wax over your project, using your brush or a lint free rag can help remove the excess. 

If you choose to distress your piece, fine steel wool is a wonderful tool in addition to sanding blocks and sand paper. Using steel wool, begin with a light handed approach. This distressing process will remove paint and wax leaving you with gorgeous imperfections which adds to the authenticity of your project.  Adding more pressure in places where a piece would have scratches and dings, where paint would be worn off from hands opening and closing drawers or wear and tear from years of use.  Those are the areas to highlight and steel wool will help you achieve this goal.

OK - so I just have to talk about buffing and polishing - because that is all part of the waxing process. Yes, they will suggest you use a lint free cotton rag....however, leave it to me to test other products. My go-to wax remover/buffing/shining weapon - the cotton work gloves found at your local home improvement center. Why? Because wearing the cotton gloves allows me to feel the wood, wrap my fingers around the spindles of a chair, get into the details and use both hands while polishing. I find cotton rags bulky, hard to feel through and I'm really not a fan of how they bunch up and need to be folded and folded again.

Allow the finished piece to cure between 21 and 28 days.  This really is important!  Wax needs to cure - and, trust me, you will be glad you did. However, I know there are those who are not good at exercising patience - so, if you chose to use your piece right away, please take care to avoid liquid damage, scratching or bumping!

As I have said from the top, wax is my go-to protective finish for the majority of my projects.  Although "they" say wax is fine for items such as kitchen cupboards, table tops and other high use items......I prefer a topcoat for the pure and simple reason - topcoats are as tough as nails. As mentioned earlier, wax is a wonderful protective finish - but it will not provide the tough protective finish I would use or recommend for high traffic items that are used and abused on a regular basis. In a future blog I will offer recommendations covering everything from my favorite products when working with topcoats, varathanes, acrylic and polyacrylics - what I use them on, and why.   

FINAL WORD –

One thing I would suggest is to keep in mind that speciality paint stores sell their products to many DIY enthusiasts as a package deal.  Everything you need to transform whatever your heart desires - all from one manufacturer.  This is great for those starting out, wanting to paint a few items – it takes the guess work out and basically – you can’t screw it up!  However, as you learn new techniques, figure out what works - and what doesn't, build your confidence and find your groove - take the time to discover the fabulous products offered by different manufacturers.  I maintain, in painting – there are no rules.  And, you can rest assured, the rules that are out there - I have broken most of them! Mix paint lines, waxes and topcoats, use a brush from another line - find out what works for you! Continue to learn, experiment, grow as an artisan - and trust your gut.  That will ensure success – every time!

I would appreciate hearing from you!  What is your favorite wax?  Have you experimented with those found at your local home improvement centre or hobby store?  What are your recommendations?  Drop me a note below and let me know your thought!

"Wax - It's a Good Thing!"

Until Next Time – Live Simply! – Mary Elizabeth

DISCLAIMER -  The comments and opinions expressed are my own and are based on my research, tests, money and time.  I am not paid to promote any of the products mentioned.