BEST WAX FOR PAINTED FURNITURE

BEST WAX FOR PAINTED FURNITURE......

Wax - is it the best sealant? What about durability? Will wax provide longevity?  So, just what are the different waxes and how do they compare?  Clear wax, antiquing wax, black wax, white wax and metallic? There are a lot of options out there with each manufacturer touting their products as the best.

I have spent the better part of my life painting everything from the smallest picture frame to massive kitchen cupboards – and every type of furniture imaginable.  I am a curious sort, wanting to learn - absorbing as much information as I can keeps me in the loop on all the latest and greatest tools and accessories. So, if I am able to impart a little wisdom and guide you on your next adventure into the furniture painting world - mission accomplished!.

So, Here’s The Thing…..

Painting furniture is all fun and games...until you start waxing. Right off the bat I am going to tell you something the manufacturers won't - WAXING AIN'T FOR SISSIES!  No word a lie - IT IS TOUGH WORK - so - be prepared for a good workout.

Secondly, wax, like most speciality products, is not cheap.  You will spend a considerable amount of money on a rather small container. LESS IS BEST - it is not necessary to be heavy handed or liberal in the application.

It is also worth pointing out that wax is considered a protective finish in addition to being a barrier from such things as moisture, air pollutants and dust. During the waxing process, wax is absorbed into the wood and cures from the inside out which means your finished project will be durable. And, for the record - although wax is a great protective finish, it is not a "tough as nails" finish compared to a topcoat, varathane or acrylic.  Therefore, as much as wax is my preferred finish, I recommend reapplying wax every few years to help maintain durability and provide health and nourishment to the wood.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE, WHAT DO THEY DO, AND HOW DO I USE IT?

CLEAR WAX – The first step. Whatever your vision for your finished project, clear wax is the first step.  Clear wax will emphasize the depth of color. You can stop after one or two coats of clear wax for a clean matte finish and your piece will be gorgeous.  However, if you choose to add one of the other waxes for definition, clear wax will act as the base and allow you the freedom to move and blend additional waxes with ease.

DISTRESSING - If you choose to distress your piece, now is the time. Some prefer to distress prior to waxing, others prefer to distress after the first coat of wax - it is personal preference.  I will say this, distressing after the first coat of wax controls the chalk dust! Distressing after the first coat of wax also gives you more control over the distressing process.  I distress using both methods but it largely depends on first - ventilation, and second - what I am trying to achieve. Try distressing both ways and do what you are comfortable with - it's all about experimenting and finding what works for you!

ANTIQUING (DARK) WAX – If you choose to enhance the imperfections, give your project more of a rustic, farmhouse effect or desire additional depth of color and character, antiquing wax is a fantastic medium for this look. It gives your project a patina, an old feel – texture, like it has been around for ages.

BLACK WAX – A great wax for a contemporary look with an old world age appeal. Using Black Wax will further enhance the depth of color and is an excellent choice for bringing out texture and brushwork. Black wax is applied in the same fashion as Antiquing wax and the same steps are followed to achieve the depth, character and a classic look.

WHITE WAX – If you are looking for a barn board, beachy, nautical or white-wash farmhouse appearance, you will achieve this using White Wax.  Applied in the same manner as Antiquing and Black wax. Following these same steps, you will achieve the weathered, limed and worn look.

HOW TO APPLY CLEAR WAX - Using your brush, apply the wax working in small sections.  Be sure to get in the groves, nooks, crannies and crevices. Before you move on to the next section go back with a lint free cloth - or my favorite, cotton work gloves, and remove any excess wax.  You should feel a smooth finish.  If your fingers are "pulling" or the wax feels tacky – go back and continue wiping off the excess wax. When you are finished waxing your project - go back - check your piece to ensure it is completely protected in clear wax. If clear wax is the only sealant you will use, I strongly suggest two coats, waiting 24 hours before applying the second coat.

HOW TO APPLY WAX FOR A RUSTIC FINISH - Using your brush, work the antiquing wax into the corners and crevices of your piece to bring out brush marks and recesses. Work your brush in different directions, not even straight strokes.  Blend the wax so it has an uneven appearance and creates character, heavier around the recessed areas, lighter where you would like it to look worn. Again, as with clear wax, work in small patches and before moving on to the next section, use a lint free cloth or cotton gloves and wipe down where you have just applied the antiquing wax.  Continue these steps until your piece is complete.

HOW TO APPLY WAX FOR A CONTEMPORARY FINISH - Using your brush, work the wax in small sections, blending for a smooth finish.  Add wax in a more controlled, uniform fashion. Before moving to the next section, using a clean cotton rag, wipe away the excess wax in long, smooth strokes.

MY FAVORITES - IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER:

ANNIE SLOAN

Annie Sloan waxes are creamy smooth, easily manipulated and will give your paintwork the protective finish necessary to stand the test of time.  If you have not used Annie Sloan wax before, you may find the consistency a little thicker than the others recommended here, however, the coverage is excellent, acceptable price point and easy to work with. I particularly like Annie's wax when I want a heavy wax finish, multiple layers and a piece to have a ton of character. 

COST - Annie Sloan offers Clear, Antiquing (Dark), Black and White Wax. - 4oz CAD$22.50 - 16oz CAD$32.00

MINWAX PASTE FINISHING WAX

This is an amazing product!  Minwax has been in business since 1904, so I’m thinking they know a thing or two about wax. And, it smells amazing!  This wax is pretty much bullet proof once it has dried and cured.  It is easy to work with and adds a beautiful matte luster to any project. I will use Minwax on pretty much any project - it is that awesome to work with and gives my pieces a great clear finish or a fantastic base for the addition of other waxes.

COST – 450gm CAD$12.00

MISS MUSTARD SEED

Made from a beeswax base, this is a beautiful product.  One of Miss Mustard Seed's (MMS) waxes actually has lavender oil to add to the pleasure of waxing furniture!  These waxes are buttery in texture and will achieve the same goal as Annie Sloan, however, I find I’m required to use more of Miss Mustard Seed’s wax, but I love the texture, the smell and the ability to manipulate this product.  I choose MMS for projects when I have used Milk Paint for a chippy finish.  It is "lighter" in texture and easy to apply. Seriously, it is like spreading softened butter on your project. 

COST – Miss Mustard Seed offers Clear and Lavender infused Furniture Wax, White Wax and Antiquing Wax. All 50gm containers CAD$16.00 – White Wax 200gm CAD$35.00 – Clear Furniture Wax 200gm CAD$29.00 – Antiquing Wax 200gm CAD$32.00 Lavender Scent Furniture Wax 200gm CAD$38.95

FUSION MINERAL PAINT WAX

Buttery smooth and easy to use, Fusion wax is a fine museum quality wax.  It provides a beautiful luster to any finished product and is durable, insuring longevity.  I love the selection of waxes offered from Fusion.  Choose from Clear, Espresso, Black, Liming and Aging for a gorgeous authentic look or Copper, Pearl or Rose Gold for a metallic finish.  What I love about Fusion is the array of wax choices. The waxes are easily applied, provides good coverage and on point price wise. 

COST - 50gm CAD$16.99 - 200gm CAD$28.00 

OTHER HELPFUL TIDBITS –

If you find you have added too much of a darker or metallic wax, clear wax can help you remove any excess before it has cured.  Simply apply clear wax over your project, using your brush or a lint free rag can help remove the excess. 

If you choose to distress your piece, fine steel wool is a wonderful tool in addition to sanding blocks and sand paper. Using steel wool, begin with a light handed approach. This distressing process will remove paint and wax leaving you with gorgeous imperfections which adds to the authenticity of your project.  Adding more pressure in places where a piece would have scratches and dings, where paint would be worn off from hands opening and closing drawers or wear and tear from years of use.  Those are the areas to highlight and steel wool will help you achieve this goal.

OK - so I just have to talk about buffing and polishing - because that is all part of the waxing process. Yes, they will suggest you use a lint free cotton rag....however, leave it to me to test other products. My go-to wax remover/buffing/shining weapon - the cotton work gloves found at your local home improvement center. Why? Because wearing the cotton gloves allows me to feel the wood, wrap my fingers around the spindles of a chair, get into the details and use both hands while polishing. I find cotton rags bulky, hard to feel through and I'm really not a fan of how they bunch up and need to be folded and folded again.

Allow the finished piece to cure between 21 and 28 days.  This really is important!  Wax needs to cure - and, trust me, you will be glad you did. However, I know there are those who are not good at exercising patience - so, if you chose to use your piece right away, please take care to avoid liquid damage, scratching or bumping!

As I have said from the top, wax is my go-to protective finish for the majority of my projects.  Although "they" say wax is fine for items such as kitchen cupboards, table tops and other high use items......I prefer a topcoat for the pure and simple reason - topcoats are as tough as nails. As mentioned earlier, wax is a wonderful protective finish - but it will not provide the tough protective finish I would use or recommend for high traffic items that are used and abused on a regular basis. In a future blog I will offer recommendations covering everything from my favorite products when working with topcoats, varathanes, acrylic and polyacrylics - what I use them on, and why.   

FINAL WORD –

One thing I would suggest is to keep in mind that speciality paint stores sell their products to many DIY enthusiasts as a package deal.  Everything you need to transform whatever your heart desires - all from one manufacturer.  This is great for those starting out, wanting to paint a few items – it takes the guess work out and basically – you can’t screw it up!  However, as you learn new techniques, figure out what works - and what doesn't, build your confidence and find your groove - take the time to discover the fabulous products offered by different manufacturers.  I maintain, in painting – there are no rules.  And, you can rest assured, the rules that are out there - I have broken most of them! Mix paint lines, waxes and topcoats, use a brush from another line - find out what works for you! Continue to learn, experiment, grow as an artisan - and trust your gut.  That will ensure success – every time!

I would appreciate hearing from you!  What is your favorite wax?  Have you experimented with those found at your local home improvement centre or hobby store?  What are your recommendations?  Drop me a note below and let me know your thought!

"Wax - It's a Good Thing!"

Until Next Time – Live Simply! – Mary Elizabeth

DISCLAIMER -  The comments and opinions expressed are my own and are based on my research, tests, money and time.  I am not paid to promote any of the products mentioned.

BEST BRUSH FOR PAINTED FURNITURE

Oh the selection of paint brushes we have to choose from!  How do we decide?  Which brush is favored over another - and why? Round, oval or square? Small, medium or large? Long handle, short handle? Pure bristles or synthetic?  The choices are endless...

Quite frankly, refinishing furniture is hard work.  The more we do to enhance the beauty of a project -the more time we invest, the more tools and accessories we use and the more creative we become! The last thing I want to do is spend time sanding out paint strokes or pulling stray bristles in the process.  Choosing the right brush for your project is as important as choosing the right paint - together, they will not only make painting easier, more enjoyable and more efficient - they will affect the final result and in turn - your bottom line. 

And, I'll be honest - cleaning brushes is not my favorite past time.  With the number of brushes I use in the run of a day, the last thing I want to do is stand at the sink separating bristles, soaking and scrubbing them to ensure they are free from evidence of the days projects.   

So, Here’s The Thing……

When I first started painting furniture years ago I was literally shocked at the price of paint brushes. They were, and still are, a huge investment - but one I am willing to make every time - for the betterment of my work.

I am sure there are brushes out there that I haven't tried. However, in my quest for the perfect paint brush I can assure you, after years of testing brushes from various home improvement centre and speciality paint manufacturer claiming their brushes are the best, I am confident in recommending three brands that never fail to impress.

Here are my favorite paint brushes – covering issues of shedding, cleaning, price points, why I use them and how I care for these amazing tools.

CLING ON BRUSHES

I get a lot of questions about the Cling On Paint Brushes and what makes them so superior to other synthetic furniture brushes. Here are but a few reason why the Cling On is so wonderful.

ZERO SHEDDING - As a synthetic brush, you will not lose one bristle from your Cling On brush, nor will they split or come loose from the ferrule. No picking bristles out of paint - from the container or the project - that is a total win right there!  

NO BRUSH STROKES - It's silky smooth bristles make for a flawless application eliminating or at least reducing the need for sanding to remove brush strokes.

DURABILITY - These brushes are built to last.  With proper care the Cling On brushes will last for years.

SELF CLEANING - Cling On brushes are meant to be self cleaning - AMAZING, right? After use, simply place the brush in water, making sure the bristles are not touching the bottom of your container, and just leave it until you are ready to paint again.  When you are ready to get to work, simply rinse the brush off in warm water and you are good to go.

HELPFUL HINTS - Do not remove the string around the base of the brush - they serve a purpose. Do not wrap in plastic or paper for drying or storage. Cling On works best when the brush is slightly damp.  This prevents the paint from drying on the bristles when in use. They hold a ton of paint which allows for a flawless application which means you use less paint.  Another win!

PRICE POINT - Cling On brushes come in so many shapes and sizes.  From the oval series to the round, flat and angular series. These brushes will cost between CAD$15.00-$36.00 depending on the size and shape you choose.

MY FAVORITE - I love the 045 oval brush for painting pretty much anything, but the size of the brush depends on what I am painting. I like the medium or large round for chairs - think spindles and detail areas. Flat medium brushes are perfect for projects such as tables, armoires and kitchen cupboards. The angular Cling On is smaller with an angular handle which is perfect for those hard to get at places. 

FINAL WORD - You won't be disappointed if you chose to purchase a Cling On Brush. Strong, flexible, sturdy. Easy to clean and maintain. Perfect for clean, classic, contemporary, smooth finishes. A variety of sizes and shapes to match your preference. An investment - absolutely, but one that will last for years to come - and it will be a sad day when you have to part with your Cling On Brush.

ANNIE SLOAN PAINT BRUSHES

AND.....

FUSHION MINERAL PAINT BRUSHES

I am really torn between Annie Sloan and Fusion Mineral Paint Brushes.  I have been using Annie Sloan "everything" since I discovered her line years ago.  At that time I was a newbie and felt Annie was the only way to go - from brushes to paint and wax. Well, fast forward 15 years and not much has changed - until Fusion!  I still love Annie's brushes and have quite a collection of them in my studio but, depending on the project, I am just as likely to reach for a Fusion brush. That's how fantastic they both are!

Both lines offer pretty much the same deal.  Pure bristle and synthetic brushes in varying sizes. It really boils down to what I am looking for in my finished piece. For ease of reference, I have combined both lines into one category as the maintenance and attributes are basically similar but I will point out my favorites - and why. 

SHEDDING - As a pure bristle brush both Annie Sloan and Fusion are excellent, there is minimal shedding.  To prevent shedding I highly recommend washing the brush prior to your first use which will encourage removal of those loosened bristles before you begin your project.

BRUSHES - For a ton of texture and paint strokes - this is the beauty of the pure bristle brush.  Both Annie Sloan and Fusion have fantastic choices.  Strong and flexible either line allows for an expressive, textured finishes.  Because the bristles are long they hold a lot of paint and allow for a nice flow and coverage.

Both lines also offer synthetic brushes - Annie Sloan's are a beautiful blue bristle and Fusion a gorgeous shade of green.  Both are designed to achieve a smooth, contemporary finish. The handles are different - Annie has long handles, Fusion has short.  The difference comes down to personal preference.

Both Annie Sloan and Fusion state that their pure bristle paint brushes can be used for waxing, making them even more appealing! However, when it comes to waxing, I will choose the Annie Sloan waxing brush every time.  The ergonomically shaped handles allow for easy application of wax to any painted project.  And, as the wax brushes are shaped to a point using the pure bristles with natural split ends, you can get into those hard to reach places for complete coverage.

DURABILITY - Strong, flexible and made of pure bristles, these brushes will last a long time. 

CLEANING - Clean your brush after use. I use Murphy's Oil to remove any build up on the brush followed by Dawn dish detergent. A small amount in the palm of your hand moving the brush in a circular motion to remove any paint or wax.  Warm water rinse and then remove any excess water.  Hang the brush, bristles down, to dry and it is ready for your next project.  If you do have dried on paint, my favorite tool to remove those bits is an old fingernail brush.  Brushing from the base of the bristles to the tip, these handy little personal care brushes are the bomb!

PRICE POINT - Annie offers three sizes of paint brushes with the pure bristles, small, medium and large as well as the two sizes for waxing.  Also offered are two synthetic, blue bristle brushes. Annie's brushes will set you back anywhere between CAD$15.00-$75.00.  Fusion offers four sizes of pure bristle brushes and one synthetic with green bristles.  They will run between CAD$18.00-CAD$35.00.

MY FAVORITE -

My go-to brushes when looking for a textured, creative, layered look are Annie's and Fusion's medium and large oval pure bristle brushes.  There is not a product out there, that I have found, that can match the beauty, durability and creativity created when working with either line.

For those clean, contemporary, smooth finishes - the sheer joy of loading my Cling On brush for those smooth broad, bristle free paint strokes - Cling On is one superior brush.

FINAL WORD - The first time you pick up an Annie Sloan, Fusion or Cling On brush you will understand why I cannot say enough good things about them. Working with either a pure bristle brush with natural split ends or a zero shedding synthetic brush is heaven. All three recommendations are strong, sturdy and flexible. Easily cleaned and maintained. Perfection! From pure bristle to enhanced synthetic brushes in varying sizes, you are sure to find one that meets your needs. Purchasing an Annie, Fusion or the Cling on Brush is an investment -  but they are purchases that will last for years - and you will never regret it!

Can I have a bottom line here? Okay - let's face it - searching and experimenting with every brush is a daunting task.  The next time you are out shopping for a new brush may I suggest you hold it in your hand. Bend it, twist it - get a feel for its flexibility - or stability because, after all, it is you who will be working your magic on that next project.  Think about a pure bristle or synthetic type brush and what you will be using this brush for - what is the look you are trying to achieve? Consider the length and size of the handle and the length of the bristles. You need to feel comfortable when you have it in your hand - or I can guarantee you - it will end up on your shelf, never seeing the light of day. Been there - done that and have learned from costly investment mistakes.

Find the right brush that work for you and helps create the vision you have of transforming that throw away piece into a piece of art. The right brush along with the right paint will make all the difference between your success and your disappointment. 

What is your go-to paint brush?  What is it you love about the brand you have chosen?  Have you made hasty decisions and ended up regretting the purchase?  Let's talk!

"I don't have to lay on the couch and see a therapist because my therapist is in my paint brushes."  

- Abbey Lincoln

Until Next Time – Live Simply!

-  Mary Elizabeth

DISCLAIMER -  The comments and opinions expressed in my blogs are my own and are based on my research, tests, time and costs.  I am not paid to promote any of the products mentioned. Thanks! :) 

THE GREAT PAINT DEBATE

THE GREAT PAINT DEBATE

As I say goodbye to 2017 I find myself in a state of reflection. It has been 6 months since I launched Mary Elizabeth Interiors and I can’t help but be reminded of the joys, the accomplishments, the friendships and the endless abundance of creative energy! There are so many reasons to smile and I want to thank each of you for being a part of this amazing journey. The thrill of many refinished pieces finding new homes, cottage renovations, a rustic loft addition, the many painted and reupholstered family heirlooms, the yummy fabrics, gorgeous paints, endless Craft Fairs, Farm Markets and Community Events. It’s been awesome!!

The hick-ups – well, there have been a few - and, they are all for one reason – my continual desire to learn. Trying the newest line of paints, testing the latest and greatest brushes and tools, new glazes and new waxes. From new techniques like the ombre and boho effects to transfers, stencils and mixing paints to achieve that perfect shade...  I’ve had a few disasters.

But, isn’t what this is all about – trial and error - until you find what works for you?  If I don’t take the time to test, try new ideas and experiment on my inexpensive finds - how am I going to be able to guide, recommend or inform customers with confidence? Every time I pick up a brush – it is an opportunity to learn - to gain knowledge in this wonderful field of furniture refinishing. I know I will continue to accept the latest challenge, to create my own designs and to continually be inspired by other's inspirational posts – but I also know I will master whatever hurdles lay before me and not let a few hick-ups along the way deter my determination.

So, here’s The Thing…

I paint a lot of furniture and get asked so many questions about the different speciality paints I use. How I decide which is right for a project, how easy they are to work with, how they hold up over time and how I justify the cost of these speciality paints.

Let’s clear up two misconceptions about speciality paints.  The first is cost - they are more expensive than what you would pick up at your local home improvement center where a gallon will cost around $25.00.  But, because the speciality paints are thicker and designed to go a long way, you need less of it.  So, I never feel I am over spending on these paints.

The second is prep work.  I have been painting for years and have completed so many pieces I have lost track but the one thing I know for sure – prep work is necessary.  I’m not saying you have to sand, strip or scrape your piece to the bare bones, but a good once-over with at least a 100 grit sanding block is a good thing.  As with any project – be it building a house, putting on makeup or starting a new relationship - the foundation on which you begin will only enhance the beauty - and longevity.

Here are my top five paints, what I use them for and what I like about each one.

ANNIE SLOAN CHALK PAINT

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is a “true” chalk paint. I love everything she offers from paints, waxes and topcoats to brushes, fabrics and stencils.  Annie’s paints are creamy and you get great coverage in just one application.  Her products are fantastic for furniture that is going to be either classic, multiple colors, ombred, layered, stenciled, transferred or distressed.

To work with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint you only need to give the can a shake or stir.  A quick prep and finish are necessary to seal your work.  You can select from clear, antique or dark waxes, gold, bronze and silver gilding waxes and topcoats. The possibilities are endless.

My favorite shades: Old White, Duck Egg Blue, Primer Red, Chateau Grey, French Linen and Graphite.

MISS MUSTARD SEED and SWEET PICKINS MILK PAINT

Both Sweet Pickins and Miss Mustard Seed have a wonderful selection of milk paints and other supplies.  I use milk paint when I am looking for that old, rustic, been through the ringer type farmhouse finish. Milk paint gives you a chippy, worn authentic appearance that, I believe, you can only truly achieve with milk paint. 

Milk Paint comes in a powder form and you will need to mix it with water, stir and let it sit for 5 minutes to thicken to the consistency of coffee cream. If you choose to work on a heavy lacquered, glass or metal finish, you can add the Milk Paint Bonding Agent to the paint to help it adhere.

A quick prep and finish are required. Both companies offer clear and antiquing waxes, topcoats and hemp oil to seal and protect your finished project.

My favorite shades from Miss Mustard Seed: Farmhouse White, Linen, Flow Blue and Luckett Green.

My favorite shades from Sweet Pickins: Artichoke, Lantern, In a Pickle and Flour Sack.

FUSION MINERAL PAINT

Fusion Mineral Paint is an interesting product and there are many shades to select from. Fusion paint goes on like Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I love that it is self leveling which makes it a great product for projects such as kitchen cabinets.  It’s also great for small, quick projects such as picture frames and lamps.  Because Fusion paint has a built in topcoat, you don’t have to wax, buff or seal with other products – a huge timesaver!

To work with Fusion, you just give the jar a shake.   They also offer a beeswax finish and furniture wax, hemp oil and a clear topcoat for added durability.

My favorite Shades: Prairie Sunset, Homestead Blue, Raw Silk, Limestone and Cranberry.

FAT PAINT

FAT Paint is a “chalk-like” paint. The thing I like most about FAT Paint is the array of colors.  From the muted to the daring and bold. FAT Paint does take more than one or two coats and a considerable amount of muscle if you are going to distress.

I prefer to use FAT Paint on smaller item such as a occasional tables, a kitchen chair or a foot stool. I also use it when I am creating details – think whimsical – small areas where a splash of color is needed. 

To work with FAT Paint, you just give the can a shake. A quick prep and finish are necessary. They offer clear and antique wax and a clear topcoat to seal your project.

My favorite Shades:  Shop Door, Lily Pad, Dutch Door and Juno. They also offer a designer line by Amanda Forest and my favorites are: Can’t See Me Cameo, Couture Linen and Blushing Bombshell.

My newest curiosity is GENERAL FINISHES and - well basically everything they offer - from paints, color selection, finishes, java and gels, gold leaf and other applications.  I can’t wait to experiment with this line of products and look forward to sharing the results with you in a future post.

Bottom line – there are oodles of companies marketing their products. Find what works for you and makes you a better artisan. As for me, I want to know and learn all I can so I have the knowledge and confidence when speaking to clients and customers.  I spend a lot of time researching, googling, you-tubing and visiting websites and Facebook Groups for inspiration and support.  My studio is full of all kinds of paints – including latex, waxes, brushes, oils, topcoats, stencils and other accessories – there is never just one line I use. I would encourage you to step outside your comfort zone and not shy away from growing some new skills. Each company has a lot to offer and picking those products that help you become the best at what you do – will always be a win!

What paint lines have you tested?  Do you use the same supplier every time?  I’d love to hear from you and see your projects – in progress or completed! Drop me a line and be sure to include a photo if possible.

"Creativity takes courage."

        -    Henri Matisse

Until next time, live simply! – Mary Elizabeth